Thursday, December 27, 2012

Find out when the wait will be up and you'll be able to drive a brand-new 2014 Manda6 off your local dealer's lot.

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Why the 38-mpg 2014 Mazda6 is on dealer lots, but you can't drive it

If you stop by your local Mazda dealer this month, with any luck, you'll see the much-anticipated 2014 Mazda6 parked in the showroom – there are already a few hundred of them out there. That's quite an accomplishment in light of the fact that it isn't even calendar year 2013. The move is part of a strategic decision by the Japanese automaker, which is hoping to capitalize on holiday showroom traffic. (The last five days of the year are typically among the busiest dealer days all year).

If you happen to spy the rakish sedan, you may notice something missing – a window sticker. That's because Mazda (like other automakers) can't legally display the Monroney on a 2014 model year vehicle until January 1, 2013. According to Autoblog sources, Mazda dealers are legally prohibited from letting you test drive until the start of 2013, so it's more of a sneak preview than anything else. Even so, we reckon shoppers will be impressed when they finally get a look at those window stickers – Mazda hasn't announced fuel economy figures yet, but Autoblog has learned that the 2014 model will carry a pair of impressive numbers: EPA estimates of 27 miles per gallon in the city and 38 mpg on the highway using regular gas.

Mazda dealers are legally prohibited from letting you test drive until the start of 2013, so it's more of a sneak preview than anything else.

Those figures mirror that of the CVT-equipped 2013 Nissan Altima, but with a bit more power – the document cites figures of 184 horsepower and 185 pound-feet of torque from the 2.5-liter Skyactiv four cylinder – figures that are down slightly from the 189 hp and 189 lb-ft overseas example we drove in October. Unlike the Nissan and many of its competitors, the engine can be paired with the buyer's choice of either a six-speed manual gearbox or automatic. Other key rivals, including the Honda Accord, Kia Optima and Toyota Camry fall short of the Mazda's economy numbers, though the Kia does offer a bit more power at 200 hp/186 lb-ft.

The 2014 Mazda6 fuel economy figures come courtesy of a "Display Vehicle Playbook" dealer document obtained by Autoblog from an anonymous source. A word of advice – don't bother trying to cajole your local salesman into an early sale or test drive. Those same dealer materials spell out in no uncertain terms that "there are SIGNIFICANT financial penalties that may be incurred should the vehicle be operated or driven prior to final invoice." Final invoices will be issued by Mazda district managers just before the car goes on sale January 2.

Source: Autoblog.com

Thursday, December 20, 2012

Let our team of knowledgeable & certified service techs at Russell & Smith Mazda keep your vehicle running at its best!

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When it comes time for routine maintenance don't trust just anyone. Allow the certified technicians and experienced service team at Russell & Smith Mazda to make sure your vehicle remains running at its best!

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Monday, December 17, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: Top Five Ways to Make Your Car Run Forever

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Though we may set out to keep a car forever, not everyone will have the persistence — and luck — of Irv Gordon, a man who holds the world record for having driven his 1966 Volvo P1800 for nearly 3 million miles. You can, however, greatly extend the life of your vehicle, while simultaneously reducing the possibility of mechanical mishaps. The following five items are basic and can apply to any vehicle.

1. Follow Your Vehicle's Service Schedule: This may seem like a no-brainer, but there are still too many car owners out there who pay little or no attention to the vehicle maintenance schedule as laid out in the owner's manual. "I follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule, not the dealer's," says Gordon. "They built the car, so they ought to know what's best for the car." Not following the maintenance schedule is particularly inexcusable in late-model cars that have oil life monitoring systems that automatically determine the best time for an oil change. Between the service indicator lights located in the gauge cluster of many new cars and the lengthy intervals between required service (up to 20,000 miles in some models), there's no reason for skimping on proper maintenance.

2. Check Fluids and Tire Pressure Regularly: Here's a task that takes about 10 minutes. With a rag in hand and the engine cool, open the hood and pull out the oil dipstick. Wipe it clean, reinsert it and pull it out again for a quick check of your oil — the most important engine fluid. Check the radiator overflow reservoir level and the brake cylinder reservoir. Check the power steering fluid level and, while you're at it, check the hoses and belts for any signs of wear or imminent failure. Give the air cleaner a look, too. Start the car and after it warms up, check the transmission fluid level. Finally, with the tires cool, use a pressure gauge to make sure each tire has the proper psi, as described in the owner's manual or in the tire manufacturer's specs. Ideally you should do these checks once a week, but in the real world, once a month would be acceptable — except for tire pressure, which really should be checked at least every other week.

3. Go Easy During Start-up: You might have heard this from someone who fires up his car and immediately floors it: "It helps warm it up." Wrong. A cold engine — meaning one that's been sitting for more than five hours — will have little or no oil left on the moving parts. It's all seeped down into the oil pan. It only takes a few seconds after start-up for the oil pump to adequately lubricate an engine. During those few seconds, you should keep engine rpm down to a minimum. Give the engine at least 30 seconds before popping it in gear and driving off. Give it a little more time if it has sat for more than 24 hours.

4. Listen for Odd Noises: Turn off the radio once in a while and listen for any odd noises, both at idle and when under way. Here are a few examples: A clicking noise when you are driving could be a nail stuck in a tire. A slight scraping noise when you come to a stop could mean the brake pads have worn down to the warning indicator, and this could mean it's time for new brake pads. A grinding or metal-on-metal scraping sound could mean a bushing is destroyed or needs to be replaced. If you cannot pinpoint the source of the noise, take the car to your mechanic to get a more informed opinion.

5. Drive Calmly: Take it easy on the car when you drive it. "Go easy on the brakes and don't drive it too hard," says Gordon. The occasional full-throttle acceleration or panic stop isn't going to hurt anything, but a constant Ricky Roadracer attitude will reduce your car's road time and add to its downtime.

The same easy-does-it attitude applies to shifting gears, too. Make sure the car is completely stopped before shifting into reverse, and be sure you're stopped before going back to a forward gear. That will avoid stress on the transmission components. If you need more incentive for calm driving, how about money in your pocket? Edmunds editors tested the tips and found that having a calm driving style improved fuel economy by about 35 percent.

Don't Panic Over Wear-and-Tear
These simple steps can be applied to just about any vehicle, and will help you take a proactive approach to maintaining your vehicle. But don't be discouraged when things start to break down. Parts wear out on every car, even those with excellent reputations for reliability. In almost all cases, it is cheaper to fix your car than to replace it.

These are our five tips for keeping your car running forever, but what is Irv Gordon's secret to reaching nearly 3 million miles? Drive the car like you love it. We couldn't agree more.

Source: Edmunds

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Mazda CX-3 Small Crossover Rumored to be in the Works

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Mazda is working on a small crossover that could be called the CX-3.

According to AutoExpress, the small crossover will be based on the Mazda2 platform, and it is due to arrive sometime in 2014. It will use Mazda’s SkyActiv technology to keep the weight low, and the mpg high. Likely engine options include a 2.5-liter diesel already found in the CX-5 (shown above), though two new engines, a 1.6-liter diesel and a 1.3-liter turbo gas unit are said to be in the works.

Following in the footsteps of the CX-5, the CX-3 will likely try and mimic the fun handling characteristics of the MX-5 Miata.

Souce: Auto Express

Monday, December 10, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: Changing Your Transmission Fluid

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What is this?

Transmission fluid is a slippery liquid that acts as a lubricant for all of the moving parts inside your transmission. In an automatic transmission, this fluid also serves as a coolant and a viscous fluid that transmits power from the engine to the transmission.

A variety of fluids are used for different transmissions. Automatic transmissions use something called — shockingly — automatic transmission fluid. Manual transmissions use a variety of oils: regular motor oil, heavyweight hypoid gear oil or even automatic transmission fluid in some cases. Your owner's manual will tell you what your transmission calls for.

Should I do this service when it's recommended?

Yes, definitely, regardless of whether you have a manual or an automatic transmission.

Manual: Most manufacturers recommend that manual transmission fluid be changed every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. Under heavy-duty use, some manufacturers suggest changing transmission fluid every 15,000 miles.

Automatic: Service intervals for an automatic transmission vary from every 30,000 miles ... to never. The typical service interval is 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Changing it more often does no harm.

Why do I have to do this?

Manual: In a manual transmission, the problem is not so much the fluid degradation, but rather fluid contamination. This contamination occurs over time as the synchronizers, bearings and gears in the transmission wear out. The resulting metal particles then float around in the lubricant. And we all know that oil with microscopic particles of metal in it does not lubricate as well as clean oil. So if these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

Automatic: Because more heat is generated in an automatic transmission, automatic transmission fluid actually degrades and breaks down with use.

In addition, like in a manual transmission, automatic transmission fluid will also become contaminated with worn bits of the transmission. If these contaminants are not drained out, they will shorten the life of your transmission.

What happens if I don't do this?

If you don't change the transmission fluid on schedule, you'll be lubricating your transmission with metal shavings and other contaminants. This will shorten the transmission's life. The result could be a hefty boat payment to your mechanic. In other words, changing your transmission fluid at the correct interval is a good investment.

Is there any maintenance required between intervals?

Yes. It's important to regularly check the transmission fluid level between service intervals. Letting your car run low on transmission fluid can cause the transmission to shift improperly — or not at all. It also can harm the internal parts of your transmission, which will not be properly lubricated. Unfortunately, you may not hear any noises or have other clues that your transmission is low on fluid, until it's too late. So it's important to get it checked.

Here's how you can check your transmission fluid level:

Manual: Checking the transmission fluid in a manual transmission can be difficult. A few thoughtful manufacturers have included a dipstick, but that's the exception rather than the rule. If you own a car with a manual transmission, we suggest that you ask your mechanic to check the fluid level when your car is up on the lift during an oil change. It takes just a minute.

Automatic: If you own a car with an automatic transmission, your car will have a dipstick for this purpose. Be careful not to make the common mistake of confusing the transmission dipstick with the crankcase dipstick.

For most cars, checking the automatic transmission fluid consists of pulling the transmission dipstick out while the engine is warmed up and running and with the transmission in park. We suggest that you check your owner's manual, however, since some manufacturers may have a different procedure.

Of course, always check your fluid level if you notice a leak of any kind.

Car Talk Tip: Unlike engine oil, transmission oil doesn't burn up. So if you're low on transmission fluid, you almost certainly have a leak.

Source: Car Talk

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Tuesday, December 4, 2012

2014 Mazda CX-5 Gets a Power Boost: 2012 LA Auto Show

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Mazda revealed the next generation CX-5 at the 2012 LA Auto Show, giving the crossover more power and a new set of safety features.

Now available under the hood is a more powerful SkyActiv-G 2.5-liter four cylinder that puts out 184 hp and 185 lb-ft of torque, representing a 19 percent increase in horsepower and a 23 percent boost in torque. Mazda is predicting that the new engine will achieve 25 mpg city and 32 mpg highway when equipped with front-wheel drive, and 24 mpg city, 30 mpg highway when equipped with all-wheel drive.

The bigger engine will only be available on the top two trim levels of the CX-5, and can be had only with an automatic transmission.

Along with the extra power, the CX-5 is also the recipient of Mazda’s new Smart City Brake Support system, which can automatically engage the CX-5′s brakes while reducing engine output in an effort to prevent a collision, or to minimize its severity.

SCBS also incorporates acceleration control for automatic transmission, which will not allow unintended acceleration when the throttle is accidentally depressed when the driver is looking for the brakes.

Source: AutoGuide

Monday Maintenance Tip: How To Choose Tires and Wheels

We know you've heard it before, but it's critical enough to bear repeating. It's also a bit daunting, too, that the tires on a vehicle are the one single link to the road surface. Think about that for a moment. You can have the most powerful engine, the most sophisticated transmission, the most elaborate super-trick suspension, and every other automotive widget known to mankind, but it all ain't worth a tinker's damn if the tires (and wheels) are subpar. In a way, it's really a bit strange but that's just how the operation of the automobile is.

Luckily, after examining the facts in the above-noted fashion, you can rest assured that tire technology is at an all-time high and it keeps getting better. In fact, it's actually quite amazing that while crummy tires can hurt a great car, great tires can do wonders for a less-than-fantastic car. In other words, there are some instances where tire technology is way beyond many of the cars on the road.

The technology that makes wheels and tires as good as they are is also what can make the subject quite intimidating. Our purpose here is to try and put a finer point on some of the basics of wheels and tires, and how to select them, too. Think of it as a wheel-and-tire primer that will provide you with some ground-floor facts when it comes time to make a replacement tire purchase or a wheel-and-tire upgrade.

For starters, there's tons of information on the sidewall of any tire and we cover that thoroughly in Sidewall Graffiti. There you'll find the full scoop on exactly what all the numbers mean.

If you've bought a vehicle new and come to the point where you need to replace the tires, there are several ways to go. Of course the easy way is get the exact size and make that came on the vehicle when it was new. Beyond that, you might consider going to a better quality tire or one that improves dry and/or wet handling that's still the same size as the OE tire. The next step would be to switch to a different wheel and the reasons for doing that are numerous. Some people merely want a different look for the wheel while using the same tires that came on the original wheels. While this might be OK if you want to make an appearance change right away, we think it's better to wait until you need new tires anyway, then upgrade to a larger diameter wheel and tire all at once.

Known as the plus sizing concept, this basically means that if you have a 15-inch wheel, plus one would be a 16-inch wheel and plus two would be a 17-inch wheel. But before we get further into wheels, we want to shed some light on what you should know when walking into a tire store to buy tires for your existing wheels. And, of course, this info also applies when you're doing a wheel upgrade, as well.

Choosing the tire that's right for you involves numerous considerations. But to make the process less scary, keep these two simple guidelines in mind when considering tires. First, know your expected needs and driving uses. This consideration is important to overall driving enjoyment and a well-run tire shop will help you determine your tire needs before you lay down any green. But be sure that you and the salesperson communicate accurately as to your true requirements. Second, find a source or store that you trust enough to recommend the type of tire that fits your needs. Remember, the salespeople don't know your needs, you have to tell them. If they're good, they'll ask you the right questions to come up with the right tire. For example, they'll know to factor in tread life, ride and handling, and driving conditions to help you determine which of these parameters are most important to you.

You might be wondering what some of the questions could be. Here's a list of what you should think about before entering a tire store.

  1. Tread life considerations: What's your idea of how long a set of tires should last? Keep in mind that in some instances, a tire's wear rating is done through manufacturer testing and may not be the most accurate representation of a tire's true life expectancy. One way to get a handle on a tire's projected life expectancy (besides what they're warranted for, say, 40,000 miles for example) is to look at part of the UTQG (Uniform Tire Quality Grading) rating. The U.S. Department of Transportation requires each manufacturer to grade its tires under the UTQG labeling system and establish ratings for tread wear, traction and temperature resistance. These tests are conducted independently by each manufacturer following government guidelines to assign values that represent a comparison between the tested tire and a control tire. While traction and temperature resistance ratings are specific performance levels, the tread wear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the same brand. Tread wear receives a comparative rating based on wear rate of the tire in field testing following a government specified course. For example, a tire grade of 150 wears 50 percent longer than a tire graded 100. Actual performance of the tire can vary significantly depending on conditions, but the tire's UTQG tread life number can help you get in the ballpark as to how long a tire will really last.
  2. Wet weather requirements: Most of us live in a climate where inclement weather is a factor at least part of the time. Clearly if you live in, say, Washington or Oregon, you'll want to look more closely at a capable wet-weather tire than if you're in Arizona or Nevada. For those of you in Snow Belt states, some kind of four-season type of tire will be the minimum you should consider if not an all-out snow tire for the winter that you swap for standard tires in the milder months.
  3. Speed rating: Even in the plains and Western states like South Dakota, Nebraska, Idaho, Montana, New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, and Nevada where the rural interstate speed limit is 75 mph, how often do you think you're going to need a tire that's speed rated for anything over 150 mph? Be honest and knock down your required speed rating to, say, and H-speed rated tire that's still good for 130 mph. You'll pay less and likely not notice the difference in the real world. For reference, the most common speed ratings you'll come across on the majority of tires are shown in the chart below. Speed ratings signify the safe top speed of a tire under ideal conditions. For just about any street car, a V-rated tire will be more than adequate, unless the car will actually go faster than 150 mph. Usually, most ultra-high performance handling tires have a speed rating of at least V, so while you might want the ultimate handling of that type of tire, be aware that part of what you're paying for (the speed rating) is something you'll never use. For those who want tires that make a car really stick in the twisties, it ends up that many get the speed rating anyway, even though they don't need it. That's not a bad thing, but also be aware that tires with higher speed ratings are usually made from a softer rubber compound and generally will have shorter UTQG tread life ratings and, furthermore, will not actually last as long in the real world.
  4. Q= 99 mph S= 112 mph T= 118 mph U= 124 mph H= 130 mph V= up to 149 mph Z= 149 mph and above W= 168 mph Y= 186 mph

  5. Ride Quality: A low-profile tire such as a 50 or a 40-series looks great, but can be harsh over bumps or potholes when compared to a 55 or 60. In general, a lower profile tire also exposes the wheel to damage more easily. Lower profile tires also have stiffer sidewalls, which improves handling but increases rides harshness. It's all about compromise and there's no such thing as a free lunch.
  6. Noise: Some tread designs are noisier than others and it varies significantly between tire brands and tread designs. If most of your driving is on lower-speed city streets, then this won't be much of a factor. But for highway driving, you'll want to consider your options, especially if you're driving an SUV on pavement most of the time. A good salesperson will be able to tell you which tires are quieter among those you're considering; even those of the same make that are in a different line can vary in road noise.

That's the basics on tires, now we'll move on to wheels. Tires wear out, but wheels don't, so why would you want to change wheels? For many there's no reason to, especially when you look at some of the very attractive wheels that come on many of today's cars as original equipment. The way we see it, why would you bother to change wheels on such cars as a Corvette C6, late-model Mustang GT or Shelby GT500, or the 17-inch or 18-inch sport package wheels that come on the current 3 series BMW?

But, of course, some cars have hokey wheels that need to be turned into flowerpots. As such, one of the two main reasons most people consider a wheel change is simply for looks. A better-looking wheel makes a world of difference on many cars and trucks.

Besides appearance, the plus concept is a key reason to switch wheels. Plus sizing your wheels and tires is the best way to improve both the performance and appearance of your vehicle. By using a larger diameter wheel with a lower profile tire it's possible to properly maintain the overall diameter of the tire, keeping odometer and speedometer changes negligible. By using a tire with a shorter sidewall, you gain quickness in steering response and better lateral stability. The visual appeal is obvious; most wheels look better than the sidewall of the tire, so the more wheel and less sidewall there is, the better it looks. The idea of plus sizing is illustrated in the photos that accompany this story. Pretend that the four wheels we show you are for the same car, rather than the Focus, Miata, and two 3 Series BMWs they're actually mounted on. Two of the wheels (the Miata and Focus) are 15 inches in diameter, while the BMW 323iT (a wagon) and 328i have 16- and 17-inch wheels. If a car has a 15-inch wheel, then upgrading to a 16-inch wheel would be plus one and a 17-inch wheel would be plus two. You could also say that if a car has a 17-inch wheel (such as many performance cars do) then going to an 18-inch wheel and tire would be a plus one. If the car has 15-inch wheels, the 18s would be a plus three.

Besides plus sizing, other factors should be considered before shelling out big bucks for wheels. The benefits of a good-quality alloy wheel are numerous. And, of course, many cars come with them as factory original equipment. Either way, you end up with reduced unsprung weight compared to steel wheels. This is a factor affecting a vehicle's road holding ability. Unsprung weight is the portion of a vehicle that's not supported by the suspension (i.e. wheels, tires and brakes) and therefore is most susceptible to road shock and cornering forces. By reducing unsprung weight, alloy wheels provide more precise steering input and improved cornering characteristics. The added strength of a quality alloy wheel can also reduce tire deflection in cornering. This is particularly critical in a car equipped with high performance tires where lateral forces may approach 1.0g. Better brake cooling is another benefit. The metals in alloy wheels are excellent conductors of heat and improve heat dissipation from the brakes. The risk of brake fade is also reduced under more demanding conditions such as spirited driving on a twisty mountain road. Additionally, alloy wheels can be designed to allow cool air to flow over the brake calipers and rotors. The lighter rotational weight of alloy wheels can even provide a slight increase in acceleration and fuel economy.

These days it's tough to buy truly bad wheels and tires. While some wheels are lower quality than others, as is also the case with tires, there are so many good ones out there that you will usually have several possibilities from which to choose. As we've said here, be straightforward with what you really need and factor it in with that ever-present budget consideration and you'll be well grounded when it comes to keeping your car or truck on the ground.

Source: Edmunds

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

2014 Mazda6 Gains New Tech, Diesel Announcement Pending

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Second in line to adopt the brand’s new KODO Soul of Motion design language, the 2014 Mazda6 will get more than a SkyActiv engine and new styling. 

 

Fuel economy is a big part of what Mazda is pushing with its SkyActiv engines, but the powerplant won’t be alone in delivering fuel savings. Mazda will also include a capacitor-based brake regeneration system to put power back into the car while taxing the engine less to generate that electricity than a conventional system would.

Apart from that, the car will also benefit from a “Smart City Brake Support” system which is designed to prevent low-speed collisions by braking for the driver.

The same  system will also be included in the 2014 CX-5 small crossover, both of which will go on sale in January 2013. Previous information suggested that there will be more on tap for both cars than what Mazda announced today.

First, the 2014 CX-5 is said to also be slated for the larger 2.5-liter SkyActiv engine which would represent a 41-hp increase over its current 2.0-liter unit.

There might also be another engine available in the soon-to-be-sold Mazda6, which is rumored to receive the brand’s SkyActiv-D diesel engine in a little less than a year. While that information remains unconfirmed to date, Mazda also said an official announcement about its 2.2-liter oil burner will take place this week at the L.A. Auto Show.

Source: AutoGuide.com

Monday, November 26, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: Clean Your Car Without Washing It

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You have a hot date or an important appointment and you rush outside, only to find that your car looks like a hazmat zone. Luckily, you still have five minutes to do something about it. But where do you start?

Take a tip from used-car salesmen and give your car "curb appeal" — a good overall first impression. When you can't make use of a car wash, even little things can make a world of difference.

The folks at Meguiar's Inc. know a lot about making cars look good. The company's core market is enthusiasts who lavish attention on their cars. But Mike Pennington, Meguiar's director of training and consumer relations, was willing to talk about the gray area between a few swipes with a car duster and a full-on Saturday morning "bucket wash."

"We don't want to tell people not to wash their car anymore," he says. "But if you are willing to put a little time into it, you'll be surprised at how good your car can look."

Over at Turtle Wax Inc., Michael Schultz, senior vice president of research and development, says car finishes are more durable and the chemistry of waxes and car-care products has changed. This means that for minor indiscretions — think fingerprints, bird droppings and light dust — you can use a spray detailer to sharpen up the look of your car.

But one expert, who used to prepare cars for photo shoots, sounded a note of caution: Be careful of too obviously cleaning just one section of the car. It might draw attention to how dirty the rest of it is.

Here are six tricks you can use to keep up the good looks of your car between car washes. Think of it as triage for a dirty car.

Triage Tip 1: Clean horizontal surfaces with a spray detailer. You don't have to clean the whole car, just the obvious surfaces that catch dew or light rain and leave water marks. The eyesore areas are the hood, trunk and rear bumper.

Schultz recommends cleaning these surfaces in sections, using a spray detailer and microfiber towel, which is finely woven and makes better contact with the car's surface. For example, divide the hood in quarters and clean the four sections individually. He estimates you could even clean the entire car this way with spray detailer and only four towels.

Many car enthusiasts worry about scratching or putting swirl marks in the car's finish. The spray detailer is designed to avoid this by lubricating the dirt so it can be wiped up with a towel. But Schultz stresses the importance of flipping the towel often so you don't grind dirt into the clear coat — the transparent finish covering the car's paint.

Triage Tip 2: A clean windshield is (almost) a clean car. Glass is easy to clean and it sparkles like a jewel once you remove the haze and grime. Visibility is a huge safety factor, but a clean windshield also just makes you feel better about your car. When you're finished with the outside of the windshield, clean the driver-side window and side mirror, too. And for bonus points, clean the inside of the windshield and rearview mirror.

Keep a bottle of glass cleaner in your trunk, along with a roll of paper towels or the aforementioned microfiber towels. A foam spray cleaner also works well. For the really lazy folks, there's a squeegee. In addition to cleaning, a squeegee works well in the morning when there is dew all over the windshield. Squeegee off the morning moisture and your glass won't be left with those horrible drying marks.

Triage Tip 3: Take out the trash. It's a car, not a dumpster. Pull up next to a trash can somewhere and throw away papers, food or other junk that dates from the second Bush administration. Better yet, put a small trash bag in your car and empty it often, Pennington suggests.

While you're shoveling out your car, you might find a couple bucks' worth of change. Use it to buy a car deodorizer. Pennington says car interiors can absorb smells, but there are new products that actually absorb dreaded foul odors rather than just mask them. We've tested a few and they seem to work.

Triage Tip 4: Shake out the floor mats. When time is tight and you don't have a vacuum, you can simply grab your floor mats and shake off all the gravel, loose dirt, sand or — heaven forbid — used ketchup packets. The mat on the driver side probably is secured, so you'll have to work it off the anchors first. But the other floor mats are unattached and you can simply whisk them out for a quick flapping.

Triage Tip 5: Clean the wheels and tires. Pennington says that having dirty wheels on a clean car is like wearing old shoes with a new suit. So it makes sense to make the "shoes" look as sharp as possible.

The absolutely laziest way to go is just to use a cotton rag to wipe off the flat center section of your rims. (There's too much dirt on the rims for one of your microfiber towels to handle.) If time allows, work the rag into the spokes or crevices. You also can use a brush for the hard-to-reach areas.

As tires degrade, the rubber takes on a brownish hue that makes them look dull, Schultz says. So after you're finished cleaning the wheels, apply tire black with a sponge. Easier still, just use a spray product to get a quick shine.

Triage Tip 6: Clean anything you touch or look at. When you're in the car, you spend a lot of time looking at the gauges, the dashboard and the center console. So take that microfiber towel you used on the car's exterior and quickly clean off a few strategic areas inside the car. The plastic covering for the gauges is a must. Then, wipe the dust off the dashboard and sweep the fingerprints from the center console. Our experts recommend keeping car cleaning wipes in the glove compartment for quick interior touch-ups.

Now that you're finished, here's one more suggestion to make your life easier: Be very careful where you park. Sprinklers can undo all your hard work. And if you leave your car under the wrong tree, you might return to find it looking like a rock in the Galapagos Islands.

Source: Edmunds

Monday, November 19, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: How To Prep Your Car for Long-Term Storage

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Maybe you have a convertible that you love to drive in the summer, but now winter's on the way. Maybe you're going to leave town for school or an extended vacation. Or perhaps you are in the military and are being deployed overseas.

Whatever the reason, you sometimes need to store your car. There are a number of things to do before you lock the door and walk away for a month or more. If you simply let your vehicle sit on the street or in a garage for an extended period of time, you may return to a dead battery or — worse yet — a damaged engine, ruined tires and a rat's nest under your hood.

Here's a list of important steps to take before you store a vehicle. Taking these precautions will not only ensure that your car starts when you return to it, but also ensure that its time in storage doesn't shorten the life of the engine.

Keep It Covered
The ideal place to store the vehicle is in a garage. This will protect it from the elements and keep it at a temperature that's relatively stable. If you don't have a garage, and you can find accommodation at a reasonable price, consider putting the car in a public storage facility.

If you have to leave the car outdoors, consider getting a weatherproof car cover. This will help keep the car clean and dry.

Clean It Up
It may seem counterintuitive to get the car washed when you're putting it away for months, but it is an easy step and one that shouldn't be overlooked. Water stains or bird droppings left on the car can damage the paint. Make sure to clean the wheels and undersides of the fenders to get rid of mud, grease or tar. For added protection, give the car a coat of wax.

Change the Oil
Skip this step if you're only storing the car for a week or two. But if you will be storing the vehicle for longer than 30 days, consider getting the oil changed. Ford recommends this in its owner's manuals, saying that used engine oil has contaminants that could damage the engine.

Top off the Tank
This is another long-term car storage tip. If you expect the car to be in storage for more than 30 days, fill the tank with gas. This will prevent moisture from accumulating inside the fuel tank and keep the seals from drying out. You should also purchase a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-bil, to prevent ethanol buildup and protect the engine from gum, varnish and rust. The fuel stabilizer will prevent the gas from deteriorating for up to 12 months.

Keep It Charged
An unattended battery will eventually lose its charge. If possible, get someone to start the car every two weeks and drive it for about 15 minutes. Driving the car periodically has two benefits. It will maintain the battery's charge, help the car "stretch its legs" and keep the engine and other components properly lubricated. It is also a good idea to run the air-conditioner to keep the parts in working order and the air quality fresh.

If you cannot arrange for someone to start the car, there are two other options. The low-tech solution is to disconnect the negative battery cable. You'll likely lose the stereo presets, time and other settings. If you want to keep those settings and ensure that your battery starts the moment you return, purchase a battery tender, also known as a trickle charger. This device hooks up to your car battery on one end and plugs into a wall outlet on the other. It delivers just enough electrical power to prevent the battery from discharging.

Don't Use the Parking Brake
It's usually a good idea to use the parking brake, but don't do it when you leave a car in storage. If the brake pads make contact with the rotors for too long, there is a chance that they might fuse. Instead of engaging the brake, you can purchase a tire stopper, also called a chock, to prevent the car from moving.

Prevent Flat Spots
Make sure your tires are inflated to the recommended tire pressure. If a vehicle is left stationary for too long, the tires could develop flat spots as the weight of the vehicle presses down on the tires' footprints. This process occurs at a faster rate in colder temperatures and with vehicles equipped with performance tires or low-profile tires.

In some cases, simply having someone drive the car for awhile will bring the tires up to their normal operating temperature and get rid of any flat spots. In more severe cases, a flat spot becomes a permanent part of the tire and you will need to replace the tire.

If your car will be in storage for more than 30 days, consider taking the wheels off and placing the car on jack stands at all four corners. This step requires more work, but it can save you from needing a new set of tires. Without the weight of a vehicle resting upon them, your tires will be in much better shape when you return.

Keep Critters Out
A garage will keep your car dry and relatively warm. Unfortunately, those are also two things that make a garaged car attractive to mice or rats. There are plenty of places in your car for critters to hide and plenty of things for them to chew on. Try to cover any gaps where a mouse could enter, such as the exhaust pipe or an air intake. Steel wool works well for this. Next, spread mothballs or cotton swabs dipped in peppermint oil along the perimeter of the vehicle. The smell is said to drive mice away.

If you want to take a more proactive approach, lay down a few mousetraps and some rat poison. Just make sure someone can check the garage periodically, in case there are some casualties. Otherwise, you'll have to deal with a smell much worse than mothballs when you take the car out of storage.

Maintain Insurance
You might be tempted to cancel your auto insurance when your vehicle is in storage. Although that might initially save money, there is a chance that the insurance company will raise your rates due to the gap in coverage, which could cost you more in the long run. This can vary based on where you live and who your provider is, so contact your insurance company to see what options are available to you.

Get Back in Action
Here's a checklist of what to do when you're ready to bring your vehicle out of storage:

  • Check under the hood for any evidence of rodents. Look for chewed belts, hoses, wires or nests. If you covered the muffler or air intake, remove that material before you start the car.
  • Check the windshield wipers to see if the rubber is cracked or brittle.
  • Check tire pressure and inflate the tires to the recommended specs.
  • Check the brakes. Rust may have accumulated on the rotors. In most cases, this should go away after you drive the vehicle for a short time.
  • Check fluids to make sure there have been no leaks and that they are at the recommended levels.
  • If the battery cable has been disconnected, make sure that you reconnect it and that the battery terminals are clean.
  • Wash your vehicle to remove any dirt that may have accumulated.

Source: Edmunds

Friday, November 16, 2012

Mazda to revive RX-7 in... 2017?

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There is a special place in our hearts reserved for the Mazda RX-7. Its screaming rotary engine made the '80s and '90s a time of high-revving fun. While Mazda continued the rotary with the four-door RX-8, the two are not the same car, and eventually the latter was phased out.

The Motor Report is the latest outlet to crank up the rumormill over a return to Wankel power and an RX sports car for the troubled Japanese brand. According to TMR, a rotary engine could come back – and so could the RX-7 nameplate – albeit not overnight. The return of the RX-7 is said to be set for 2017, and the source quoted is none other than Mazda sports car boss Nobuhiro Yamamoto.

Speaking with the press at a local launch of the updated MX-5 Miata, Yamamoto said the future RX-7 would have a curb weight close to that of the Toyota GT 86 (about 2,600 pounds), and have a larger emphasis on the driver's involvement. Yamamoto was also the powertrain chief for the JDM-market FD3S generation (1992-2002 model) and was extremely proud of that engine. Yamamoto reportedly says he would prefer a naturally aspirated version of that engine over any kind of forced induction solution, claiming that the 16X rotary engine that has been developed would be capable of 220kW (295 hp) in that configuration. The 16X was developed in 2007 but has yet to find its way into a production vehicle.

2017 would mark the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the rotary engine. Frankly, it would be a shame if some form of the quirky and revvy powerplant was not found under the hood of a sports car anywhere in the market.

Source: George Kennedy - Autoblog.com

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Determine when it’s time for new tires using only a penny

You can use nothing but a penny from your pocket to determine if the tires on your vehicle are both LEGAL and SAFE to drive on! Almost every state mandates that all passenger car tires meet a minimum tire tread depth of 2/32" measured from the top of the tread wear indicator to the top of the tread. You can locate the tread wear indicator as it appears in the tread grooves as a small bump. It just so happens that the lettering on a penny that is right over Abe Lincoln's head is exactly 2/32". If you place the penny on top of the tread wear indicator and the letters over Lincoln’s head are visible, we’ve got some good news as well as some bad news for you. It’s bad news because that indicates your tires have insufficient tread and it’s more than likely time for a new set. The good news is that you used nothing but a penny to prevent a potentially devastating event and ensure the safety of yourself, all of your passengers and the other drivers on the road all around you.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: Don't Be Stranded by a Missed Recall Notice

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You're driving along a lonely stretch of road miles from nowhere when the noise begins. As it gets louder, a terrible question jumps into your mind: did you remember to check the recall notices on the car you're driving?

If your answer is "no," you could be in for a rude shock. Recalls, often issued for relatively insignificant issues such as windshield wiper malfunctions, sometimes relate to the operation of the engine itself. To ignore such recall notices could leave you stranded.

Typically, you will be notified of recalls on your car in two ways:

  1. A written notice mailed directly to the owner of the car.
  2. The dealer tells you a recall is in effect when the car is brought in for maintenance.

Unfortunately, this system of notification is by no means foolproof. Owners are sometimes left unaware that recalls exist on their cars. The defect goes unrepaired. And motorists are left stranded.

Honda Motor Company, known for building the most reliable cars on the market today, recently issued a recall for a misaligned timing belt tensioner pulley on the water pump on some 17,500 2003 Honda Pilots made during July 2002. As the recall notice states, the misaligned tensioner pulley "could cause the timing belt to contact a bolt on the cylinder head. Eventually the belt could be damaged and fail." The consequence of this? "The engine will stall, increasing the risk of a crash."

Naturally, Honda is not anxious to publicize the fact that one of its vehicles was manufactured with a defect. However, owners should have been informed by one or both of the above methods and obtained the necessary repairs before the situation becomes critical. That's the way the system is supposed to work, anyway. In reality, some owners were not informed and were left stranded by the side of the road. For a more detailed account of one such recall notification lapse and subsequent breakdown, read "The Road Warrior, Breakdown and Twister."

Of course, all manufacturers — not just Honda — have to issue recalls on their vehicles at one time or another. Yet, the owner notification process remains imperfect in many cases. In fact, Honda's legendary reputation for dependability makes the recent situation that much more surprising. And it underscores the need for motorists to take matters into their own hands.

Instead of merely waiting to be notified by the manufacturer, or alerted during a maintenance visit, owners should periodically check for recalls themselves. Recall information is available in our Maintenance Guide, along with a wealth of information about how to service and maintain your vehicle. Recall notices are posted weekly on Edmunds.com.

Additionally, you can call the dealership and ask a service advisor to run your vehicle identification number (VIN) through the computer system. Another source for recall information is the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) which is responsible for investigating possible design and manufacturing defects. For more information on NHTSA's role, read "Recalls, Technical Service Bulletins, and Other Good Stuff."

Checking for recalls on your vehicle will only take you a few moments. Breaking down by the side of the road will take you hours, or days, to get back up to speed and may require major repairs. As always, planning ahead has its rewards.

Source: Edmunds

Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Driving Tip: Commuter Carpools Save Time, Money and Stress

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The carpool is supposed to have picked you up by now, but it's nowhere in sight. What do you do?

In a case of art imitating life, this scene is actually from a computer game, the smash "life simulation" game, The Sims. Its inclusion is indicative of how carpooling has permeated American culture. According to recent federal government studies, 10-16 million commuters use carpooling as their principal means of transportation to work every year. That's two to three times the number of people who use public transportation.

The need for carpooling is growing along with the increased congestion on U.S. roads. According to the 2005 Urban Mobility Report, the average rush-hour commuter now spends 31 more hours in traffic than in 1982.

There are numerous benefits to carpooling. Carpoolers can use High-Occupancy Vehicle (HOV) or express lanes, substantially cutting commute time. Some employers offer guaranteed parking to those who rideshare. Fewer cars on the roads reduces smog, slows global warming, and lessens our dependence on foreign oil. Commuters who don't have to drive each and every morning arrive at work less stressed, and many enjoy the company on an otherwise dull ride.

The greatest incentive to carpool, though, is financial. Hovering around $3 per gallon, the cost of gas is forcing people to consider alternatives to driving alone. The AAA estimates that operating costs (gas, tires and maintenance) average 14.1 cents per mile for 2005, all of which are shared in a carpool. If ownership costs — such as insurance, depreciation, finance charges, and taxes — are also shared, the economic benefits skyrocket. Additionally, many employers offer financial incentives for employees who share their rides to work.

Finding a carpool has never been easier. Forget about posting a note on the company billboard. Free online ridesharing programs on the Web such as Rideshare Online will match people based on home and work locations.

Because carpooling involves at least two people, there is always a possibility for conflict. The secret to preventing discord down the road is to set ground rules. Below are some suggestions to help pave the way:

Tips for a Successful Commuter Carpool

  • Print driver schedules, pick-up times and locations, and phone numbers (including cell) on one page and distribute it to all members.
  • If you are splitting costs with fellow riders, determine what your total costs will be by using Edmunds.com's TCO calculator, then set a schedule for payment. Don't forget toll charges if applicable — they add up quickly.
  • Establish policies on stereo use, AC/heat, cell phones, and smoking before you start carpooling.
  • Set rules for latecomers and decide how long to wait (5 minutes is standard).
  • Be sure to give advance notice of vacation, personal or overtime plans.
  • Anyone calling in sick should notify that day's driver as soon as possible.
  • Have a backup plan in case the carpool driver must leave work early or stay late.

Clearly, a successful carpool requires structure. But not everyone is willing or able to commit themselves to scheduled pickup and drop-off times. Folks like these in Washington, D.C. and San Francisco have developed a fascinating carpool system called "slugging." Also called "instant" or "casual" carpooling, slugging allows commuters ("body snatchers") to pick up total strangers ("slugs") at the last minute, in order to meet the express lanes' minimum passenger requirements. The pickup sites are well-known, so drivers and passengers can join up in convenient locations on their way to work. Slugging, which traces its roots back to the 1970s Arab oil embargo, isn't about saving money. It's about saving time. No commitment required.

Source: Edmunds

Take a look at these 5-star reviews earned by Russell & Smith Mazda!

2013 MAZDA CX-5 -- FUN, FUNCTIONAL AND FEARSOME -- AT 2012 SEMA SHOW

The first Mazda to fully incorporate SKYACTIV® TECHNOLOGY, the brand's engineering philosophy that strength, safety and performance can still equate to fuel efficiency, the 2013 CX-5 was built completely new, from sketch book to sheet metal.  With Mazda North American Operations' (MNAO) Irvine-based Design team behind the helm, the same treatment was given to the CX-5 models which make their global debut this week at the 2012 Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA) Show. 

"The CX-5 is all Mazda – from its KODO design language to its inspired driving ability – and was the perfect 'clean slate' vehicle from which our Southern California team could create the concept vehicles you see here today," said Derek Jenkins, director, MNAO Design.

CX-5 180
Southern California has a way of being everything for everyone with its rare ability in acting like a four-season play palace – all in the same day.  From the ocean sand to the sandy desert, from the high altitudes to the low lands, this Western region is an adventurer's paradise.  Here enters the CX-5 180.  Can't decide what to do with your "lazy" Sunday?  Do it all.  Really.  This CX-5 won't mind.  Designed to go with the flow, whether your plans be set in stone or a last-minute "Why not," the CX-5 180 is up for any task.

Outfitted with Burton Cheetah snowboards for surfing the slopes and a Rusty surfboard for shredding the surf, the CX-5 180 features a stylized topographical map of SoCal locales Big Bear Lake and Point Dume.  Seasonal statistics for the snow and surf hot spots are featured on the front doors to include temperature highs and lows, snowfall and surf rise as well as the all-important digits of GPS coordinates.  Big Bear Lake's snowy summit is featured along the left side of the vehicle with equipment-appropriate snowboards up top while Point Dume's depth details sprawl along the right-hand side with the painted-to-match surfboard topping the chart.

Highlighted by custom-crafted colors, the mapping components featured on the CX-5 180 include dark hues of Midnight and Denim to reflect depth while lighter shades of Tidal Blue and Bay Blue signify height.  Dashes of Luminous Red are used across the entire vehicle to indicate roads.  Rough or paved, the all-wheel-drive system of the CX-5 180 allows it to maneuver wherever the trail may lead.  The same red makes its way onto select spokes of the Mazda Design custom-built 20-inch black chrome alloy wheels, which are wrapped in all-season Goodyear Eagle® F1 Asymmetric 265/40R20-sized tires for added stability and style.  A custom matte red finish replaces the stock chrome of the vehicle's five-point grille and continues into the headlamps for added aggressiveness.  A satin chrome dual exhaust by Racing Beat adds a finishing touch.

The functional mobility of the CX-5 180's exterior translates perfectly into the comforts of its interior.  Exterior-complementing Aqua interior leather is fitted onto the front and rear seats, the steering wheel, door panels, armrests and the brake boot.  Contrasting Bright White leather inserts appear on the door panels, steering wheel and seats.  French seam accents in red and white stitching appear on armrests and seats, with the red reflecting the exterior's accents representing roads and trails.  A customized trapezoidal stitching pattern is detailed on the steering wheel, which is marked by a subtle white leather strip at the high-noon position.  A custom-painted decoration panel in the topography theme of the exterior adds the final touch to the ebb and flow of the CX-5 180, creating a 360-degree perspective of the vehicle's flexibility, regardless of how contradictory the day's activities could be.

CX-5 Urban
With a quick glimpse, the CX-5 Urban appears to be merely shrouded in a matte finish.  First impressions have never been more deceiving.  Heavily influenced by design, the vision for the CX-5 Urban was inspired by styles found in fashion and architecture.  With a Mazda Design-developed custom paint process, the dark surface of the CX-5 Urban features multi-dimensional shadows with each triangular-like design shaped to reflect each bend and twist of the vehicle's sheet metal.  Utilizing the KODO "Soul of Motion" design language of the production model, the Mazda Design team translated this initial blueprint into seemingly flat, black surfaces that evoke depth at just the slight hint of light. 

The attention to detail is nothing short of stellar as no two shades of Black Mica touch.  For added refinement without deviating from the stealth-like quality of the CX-5 Urban's dark night appearance, Ore facets appear as thin pinstripes on matte paint surfaces, as an accent outlining the matte black wheels, as a precision feature in the headlamps and as a change of shade to the five-point front grille.

To further sculpt the aggressive nature of the CX-5 Urban are customized wheel flare extensions which perfectly envelop the well-matched pairing of muscular 22-inch Ace Alloy Scorpio matte black wheels and sticky Nitto Tire NT420s 295/30R22 all-season tires.  The CX-5 Urban also features a Racing Beat dual exhaust.

CX-5 Dempsey
The CX-5 Dempsey not only features actor and race car driver Patrick Dempsey's name but it was developed with his competitive passions in mind – motorsports and cycling, to be more specific.  Throughout his professional racing career, Dempsey and Mazda Motorsports have been familiar friends with Dempsey seeing seat time behind the wheel of an RX-8 in the GRAND-AM Rolex Series.  Sleek, sporty and stylishly dressed to take care of business, the CX-5 Dempsey features a high-contrast custom paint scheme of glossy grays and matte blacks with bright red highlights.  Outfitted with a Specialized Bicycle S-Works Tarmac road bike and a Thule Atlantis rooftop cargo box, no road is unexplorable, whether it be a mountain trail or Manhattan traffic.  Under the hood lurks a European-specification SKYACTIV-D 2.2-liter clean diesel engine to power the all-wheel-drive system, meaning no road is a challenge either.

The high-power clean diesel offers a low 14:1 compression ratio with an output of 129 kW at 4,500 rpm and 420 nM of torque at 2,000 rpm.  Mated to a SKYACTIV-MT six-speed manual transmission, the CX-5 Dempsey offers racing-inspired dynamics and down-right driving fun – two things usually lacking in the compact SUV segment.  The vehicle sits on Mazda Design-customized 20-inch black chrome alloy wheels encased in Michelin Latitude® Sport 255/45ZR20-sized all-season tires.  Each wheel is highlighted with a single double-spoke painted in glossy Luminous Red, a color used in a limited fashion yet makes an appealing visual impact to the CX-5 Dempsey.  Satin chrome touches in the Racing Beat dual exhaust complete the athletic ensemble.

The exterior color scheme was developed in coordination with the high-performance, competitive architecture of the Specialized Bicycle road racer.  Secured to the rear of the vehicle via a Mazda factory hitch and Thule T2 carrier, the S-Works Tarmac SL4 Red features a Carbon Satin carbon fiber frame with Red Keyline highlights.  To match, the CX-5 Dempsey is receives a glossy Anatomy Gray paint base with thick strips of striking Brilliant Black.  Luminous Red graphic lines separate the dark layers as Bright White borders and "CX-5" decals emblazon expansive surfaces such as the doors, hood and cargo box.  A Black Mica matte finish details the entire tailgate and continues across the lower portion of the vehicle as well as along the roofline to complete the bicycle's Carbon Satin look into the front hood.  The design theme evokes a rugged functionality and tempered finesse. 

The composed aggression is maintained throughout the interior as well.  Black perforated leather inserts are nestled within gray aniline leather bolsters featuring red accents which correlate directly with exterior graphics.  All leather wrapped, the steering wheel, shifter boot, armrests, door panels, center storage bin as well as front and rear seats feature contrasting Luminous Red stitching.  The full-length decorative panel is custom painted in glossy Brilliant Black and features a single Luminous Red outline with a Bright White vehicle model imprint.  The CX-5 Dempsey conveys the ambition and awareness that beats within the heart of any competitor, regardless of the race route.

MX-5 Super25
The MX-5 Super25 dives deeper into the spirit of Mazda's motorsports DNA and goes beyond the short-track prowess of the Super20, the previous MX-5 concept vehicle built for SEMA.  Unlike its predecessor – which was loud, proud and boisterous with its bursts of supercharged energy – the Super25 was crafted with endurance racing in mind.

Known for its commanding number of grassroots motorsports racers, the MX-5 Miata is the epitome of a light and limber sports car that won't burn a hole through an enthusiast's pocket.  With such a dependable starting point from which to build, the MX-5 was an optimal choice for creating a concept with the ability to handle such long-distance, weary-heavy racing.  Outfitted with a multitude of racing-inspired exterior features coupled with Mazda Design-created interior touches, the Super25 is labeled with the quick-to-motivate "55" racing number.  A significant figure in the history of Mazda Motorsports, the distinction is a tribute to the brand's historic 1991 24 Hours of Le Mans win that made Mazda the first (and still the only) Japanese manufacturer to ever be named champion.

The Super25 features the bold yet refined core colors of MAZDASPEED Motorsports Development – black, gray and red.  Covered in a commanding Super Red gloss, Brilliant White appears as minimal character details along the hood with a matte Black Mica finish dressing the lower portions of the vehicle from the front and rear fascia as well as along the side skirts.  The black, red and white pattern continues onto the glossy black surface of the sports car's fixed hard top with Brilliant White stripes remaining extending through onto the trunk lid.  A customized four-lamp lighting pod is embedded just above the modified grille and is equipped with bright-for-the-night (and day) PIAA 40 Series halogens on the inside flanked by 510 Super White Driving halogens on the outside.  Super25 looks handsomely poised on 17-inch Volk Racing T37 six-spoke matte black wheels suited in BFGoodrich g-Force™ R1™ 225/45ZR17 tires.

A Sparco Evo competition racing seat provides the lone sitting area within the Super25.  The driver's cockpit is further customized with Mazda Design-developed Charcoal ultra-suede material featuring Tomato Red perforated inserts.  The suede Sparco R323 competition steering wheel allows for even more control and precision within the driver's hands.  The six-point racing harness by Sparco ensures the driver is snug as well as comfortable during competitions while an AiM MXL data acquisition logger custom-fitted into the dash offers real-time ECU figures.

Source: Mazda Media USA

Monday, November 5, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: How To Maintain an Old Car

You might not be familiar with the term "beater." But in all likelihood, you've owned or driven one in your lifetime. This is the hand-me-down, the junker, the old car that hasn't received an ounce of love in at least a decade. It's the vehicle that's been beat on.

A big difference between those doomed to spend their lives in old, ugly, dented, fuel-thirsty beaters and those who can soon afford better rides is how they care for it. Neglect maintenance and it could lead to a crash, a breakdown or cost money you may not have.

In this article, we'll offer tips on how to keep your old car running safely as long as possible for the least money. You can do a lot yourself, even if you have little mechanical experience.

Prioritize
Owning and maintaining a beater to ensure safety is all about prioritizing your scarce (or tightly held) resources. We've grouped maintenance issues into three areas:

Priority No. 1: Maintain things that could cause your old car to lose control and possibly cause an accident. This includes your car's braking system, tires, steering system and what we'll call "the driver vision system." Spend your money here first.

Priority No. 2: This will include maintenance on things that will leave you stranded or cause other components — such as the engine — to fail. This includes radiator hoses, fuel lines, constant velocity (CV) joints and fan, accessory and timing belts.

Priority No. 3: The third priority will be simply to keep your old car alive. This includes changing the engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant.

Even if your do-it-yourself role will be limited to "inspector," get a repair manual for your vehicle: Manuals cost less than $20 new. You also could get one used or borrow one from the library. You'll also need at least one jack stand and a few tools: Look on craigslist.org or at a thrift store or flea market.

It's No Accident
The cost of an accident — insurance deductibles, lost work days, a traffic citation or increased insurance premiums — would go a long way toward paying for a better vehicle. A wreck can start you on the road toward becoming a lifetime beater driver.

Start by checking the brakes. Most beater owners wait until they hear grinding noises before taking action. Be a bit more proactive. Checking to making sure there's adequate material remaining on the brake pads for disc brakes is a good place to begin. It's also a task that most can do armed with only the car's standard jack and lug wrench and a jack stand. Remove the wheel, and with most disc brakes you can see the pads on either side of the disc. Leaking brake fluid means immediate repairs are required.

Just as doctors draw blood to help determine a person's health, "bleeding the brakes" will say a lot about your brakes as well. The job is only slightly more difficult than checking pad thickness: Consult the repair manual for details. If the brake fluid is dark black and contains bits of rubber, a serious brake job is mandatory. If not, flushing the brake fluid — bleeding the brakes until all the old fluid is expelled and replacing it with fresh fluid — is a cheap way to help the inside of the brake system last longer. Cost: about $12 for a do-it-yourselfer with the right tools and an assistant. Serious brake work requires either a professional or on-site help from an experienced amateur. Prices start at about $40 for a DIYer who only replaces the front brake pads.

Worn out and neglected tires cause more accidents than record-keepers can account for. Though it's painful when you see the credit card statement (about $200 to $400 for four non-performance tires), replace tires sooner rather than later.

Steering and suspension problems show up as uneven wear on the tires or by the way the car steers and rides. Have a professional inspect the system ($40-$75) to see if it's safe to drive, and suggest what repairs are needed.

A government report said "obscured vision" accounted for as many accidents as brake and tire failure combined. It's inexpensive (about $15) and easy to replace windshield wiper blades. Old cars' headlight lenses are often pitted or yellowed. A less used pair from a local or online auto recycling center (a.k.a. junkyard) or eBay could run anywhere from $50 to $150.

Stranded With No Way Home
Most beater cars need every hose replaced, and it's likely the heater hose, which carries hot engine coolant to a small radiator inside the car (about $30) has never been changed. For example, I used to drive a $450 Subaru as a winter beater. A heater hose sprung a leak one night on a deserted road next to a partially iced-up river. I ended up having to creep out to the edge of the ice to fill a plastic milk jug with water for the radiator. On another beater, I replaced all the hoses except for a tiny, difficult-to-access one on the water pump, only to discover how quickly all the coolant will blow through such a tiny hole. This public confession is intended to show that neglected maintenance can be dangerous for both people and engines.

Problems like this are avoidable, and there are often warning signals. It's almost certain that those who suffer car fires ignored the aroma of gasoline: Your choice is to replace an inexpensive fuel line or risk a fire. And if you hear squealing, it's likely a fan or accessory belt that should be replaced. A new belt is less than $20. The difficulty of the job varies greatly among vehicles. If you don't have the work done and the belt breaks, you'll be the one squealing.

Many old cars have engine timing belts that should be changed every 60,000 miles. This costs about $500 or more and is a not-for-amateurs task. Some engines — notably Hondas — suffer serious damage when the timing belt breaks, while others just stop running.

Owners of front-wheel-drive beaters need to listen for signs of a failing CV (constant-velocity) joint: usually a clicking noise that first appears during tight turns. Look at the rubber boots around the CV joint: Missing or boots torn long ago likely means the CV joint probably needs replacing. A professional repair can cost $300 per axle, but an experienced amateur can do it for about $80 per side.

To help make sure your old car will start, clean corrosion from the battery terminals with baking soda mixed into water and apply an anti-corrosion chemical (about $4). Inspect the battery cables (about $20 a pair) and their connections.

Another important note: If you've recently acquired a beater, you should have its oil and oil filter changed, (a $20 to $40 cost for DIYers). Have the automatic transmission fluid flushed and the filter changed. (I recommend paying a professional do to it, about $150.) Change the radiator coolant once a year (about $8).

Time To Dump It?
There's no easy answer to the question of when to get rid of your beater car. Some argue that shelling out $2,500 for a replacement transmission tops going further into debt to get another car. Besides, if you buy another used car that's less of a beater, it might soon need a $500 timing belt.

Don't sell just because you've recently been forced into a major repair. Since specific models tend to suffer identical problems, you get an idea of other big expenses that might be on the horizon by asking owners of similar vehicles on the Edmunds' Forums, or quizzing a mechanic who specializes in your make. Those who own expensive-to-repair European beaters should bail out sooner.

One way to find out if you can dump your beater is to determine the payments for the vehicle you'd like to buy and then start putting that amount into a savings account every month.

Beater Knowledge Can Pay Off
Knowing how to keep a beater car running as long as possible will save you money, particularly if you do it yourself. Sometimes there are other perks as well. I once met a young woman whose manual-transmission beater had problems with its clutch-actuating mechanism. This tough old car was built before clutch interlocks, so I taught her how to start it in gear and shift without using the clutch. The payoff? She eventually married me.

Source: Edmunds

Thursday, November 1, 2012

New 2013 Mazda CX-9 Reveal | Mazda USA

Car Tip of the Week: When To Repair Your Car and When To Buy a New One

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Something goes wrong with your car and you're faced with another high repair bill. This isn't the first time it's happened, and you're getting tired of pouring money into an aging machine. It would be nice to get a new car, but is that the smartest decision? Would you be better off fixing your current ride, or is it really time to buy a new one? The answers to these questions will vary, but we can show you several sides of the issue to help you make a more informed decision.

The Costs of Wear and Tear
Even if you take good care of your car, some-high priced repairs are unavoidable. Wearable items such as axle boots and brake rotors eventually need to be replaced. One of the more expensive repairs on a high-mileage car is the timing belt. On many cars, it needs to be replaced at around 100,000 miles. Most dealers recommend that a person also replace the water pump and the other drive belts in the car at this point. This "timing belt package" can cost between $600 and $1,000. Problems like this often begin to surface between 90,000 and 120,000 miles.

"It's around this time that people decide what they'll do with the car [in the long term]," says Marc Uchuiyama, assistant service manager at Honda of Santa Monica. "Is it going to be a hand-me-down to your kids? Do you want it to last until you get married?"

Arguments for Fixing Up
Buying a new car may not be on your radar at this point. If you aren't sure if fixing it is the right thing to do, here are a few reasons why it is a good idea to bite the bullet and get the repairs done.

  • It is almost always less expensive to repair a car than buy a new one.
  • Although something as severe as a blown motor or failed transmission will run you between $3,000 and $7,000 to replace at a dealership, it still doesn't cost as much as buying a new car. That amount would certainly make a nice down payment, but then there are the monthly payments to consider. You can purchase a used car for that much, but just keep in mind that another used car could come with its own set of issues.
  • Insurance and registration fees will go up with a new car.
  • A new car typically loses an estimated 22 percent of its value in the first year. Your existing car has already taken that depreciation hit.
  • You need the car to last a while longer. In 2011, the average person kept his car for about six years before trading it in, according to a Polk research study. Let's say your car broke down earlier than expected. You were planning on getting a new car in about a year or two. Repairing it now will keep you on the road and keep you from making a hasty new car purchase. It'll also give you more time to save up and get your finances in order.
  • You have a sentimental attachment to your car. Maybe it was your first car, a gift from a loved one or a dream car you finally were able to purchase. For you, buying a new car would mean giving up an old friend.

Arguments for Buying New
After that last trip to the dealership, you swore you wouldn't put another penny into your old car. But buying a new car seems like an intimidating prospect. Here are a few reasons why buying a new car might be the way to go.

  • You don't want to worry constantly about future breakdowns. A reader in the Edmunds forums likened a high-mileage car to a 40-year-old pitcher for a baseball team: His arm could go out in one pitch. And repairing one thing doesn't guarantee that another breakdown won't happen down the line. If you buy a new car, you'll have at least three years ? often far longer ? before you have to worry about paying for any major repairs. Some new cars come with free standard maintenance as well.
  • You're tired of the back-and-forth to the repair shop. Some things don't get fixed the first time around, while others seem to need constant attention. Either way, trips to the mechanic are costing you too much money and time away from work or family.
  • You're tired of your old car. Perhaps it embarrasses you and rattles like crazy. Or you have to bang on the A/C to get it working. Every morning when you walk outside and see the neighbor's car, you long for something new. That's perfectly normal. Just take a good look at your budget and make an honest assessment of your financial situation. Let our suite of auto calculators do the math for you.
  • You want something safer. New cars are safer than ever, thanks to modern safety equipment. Features like side airbags, tire-pressure monitors and electronic stability control are increasingly becoming standard fare on new vehicles.

When Is It Time To Buy Another Car?
If the cost of repairs is greater than either the value of the vehicle (check its True Market Value (TMV®) here) or one year's worth of monthly payments, it's time to buy another vehicle.

When the time comes, buying a used car is (almost) always a more cost-effective option than buying new, largely because you avoid the big depreciation hit. We should note that a used car can potentially have its own list of items that need repair, so choose your vehicle carefully if you go this route. Visit our used car center to search the local inventory, or check out our Used Car Best Bets for help in narrowing your used car search.

Other Factors to Consider
If you are not yet faced with making the tough decision to fix up or trade in your vehicle, there are steps you can take to prevent or avoid high-priced repairs.

  • Get your new car maintained at its proper intervals to avoid problems and breakdowns. Use our maintenance tool to learn the recommended service intervals for your vehicle. Maintaining a much older car means paying close attention to items that commonly break down. (See "Broke with a Beater.") Use our maintenance articles to help make your car run forever.
  • You might consider purchasing an extended warranty. If you plan on keeping the car for a long period of time, this can be a great way to save money and have peace of mind. A $3,000 repair for a new transmission isn't as intimidating when you only have to pay $200 for the deductible plus the cost of the warranty itself. Remember that extended warranties are negotiable.
  • If you're experiencing issues with your car and don't know whether things are likely to get worse, "Look for advice on message boards and forums," says Loren Wong, a former warranty administrator for Acura and BMW. "Most likely, other people have gone through the same problems." You can benefit from others' experience and see what types of problems are associated with your vehicle as it ages.

Don't Let the Clunker Make the Choice for You
Everyone seems to have a theory on when to repair a car and when to get a new one. But you know your needs and your car's history better than anyone else, so use our tips as a guide. Buying a new car might seem like the easy way out of a high repair bill, but depending on your circumstances, it may not be the best financial decision.

On the other hand, a car that's teetering on the edge of oblivion can keep an owner awake at night. It's better to make the decision to part with that car on your terms rather than waiting for it to break down at exactly the wrong time. If you make the decision while the car still has some value, you can sell it or trade it in, turning it into a down payment on your next car. If you also can take advantage of the incentives and rebates being offered on new cars today, you may find that a new car is within reach for you. And it's hard to put a price tag on the peace of mind that a new vehicle can bring

Source: Edmunds

Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Mazda teases SEMA-bound CX-5s

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Mazda is getting into the SEMA Show spirit by teasing us with a trio of concepts based on the 2013 CX-5, all of which were hatched at the automaker's design studio in Irvine, California. Looking at the renderings, there is nothing over-the-top about any of these crossovers, but what we do see here is our long-awaited first look at a diesel-powered CX-5.

The CX-5 Dempsey uses Mazda's new Skyactiv-D diesel engine paired with all-wheel drive. As for the show aspect of this concept, it is obviously named after actor Patrick Dempsey who not only races a Mazda RX-8 in Grand-Am, but apparently he is also an avid cyclist. Other than the contrasting black, red and grey paint scheme, this CX-5 is also equipped with a roof-top cargo carrier and a bike rack to carry a similar Specialized Bicycle S-Work Tarmac racing bicycle that helped Russian Olympian Alexander Vinokourov win the gold medal at the London Summer Olympics.

As far as paint jobs go, the CX-5 180 show car is probably the best of the bunch with a unique look consisting of what seem to be colors and designs that actually make up topographical maps of Big Bear Lake and Point Dume State Beach located in Southern California. Finally, the CX-5 Urban goes for more of the dark and sinister look that is made up various triangular shapes that end up looking like some sort of futuristic digital camouflage.

While we only have these renderings to go off of currently, we'll get a better look at all three Mazdas very soon as the 2012 SEMA Show kicks off later today.

Source: Mazda News

Monday, October 29, 2012

Monday Maintenance Tip: What's Your Engine Oil Telling You?

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Analyzing the oil in your car is like sending a sample of your blood to the lab — it reveals an astonishing amount of information about the inner workings of your engine without invasive surgery. By reading the results of the analysis, you can fine-tune the intervals between oil changes and discover problems — such as a leaking head gasket — before they cause more expensive damage.

You might even consider analyzing the oil from a car you are considering buying. Currently this is popular with airplane, boat and heavy equipment buyers, but at least one company may soon offer this as an option for used car shoppers as well.

Test-Driving Oil Analysis

We sent two samples of engine oil to Blackstone Laboratories in Fort Wayne, Indiana, to see what we could learn about a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant with 80,000 miles on its four-cylinder engine. The first sample was oil that had been used for 3,000 miles. The second sample was taken right after an oil change at a Jiffy Lube.

The 3,000-mile oil still had plenty of life left in it, according to the lab results. Blackstone recommended we try increasing the oil change interval to 5,000 miles and send another sample for analysis at that point. Furthermore, the report said the wear metals in the oil were within normal levels, meaning that the engine was not in immediate danger of breaking down. By detecting specific wear metals in the oil, experts can tell which engine parts might be in danger of malfunctioning.

Since the purpose of oil is to lubricate, clean and cool the engine, a TBN (total base number) is used to measure the deterioration of the oil by assigning a number that is usually between 0 and 8. The TBN of the 3,000-mile oil was 3.7. The Jiffy Lube oil was 7.6 indicating it had been barely used.

"Even if the TBN is 1, it doesn't mean the oil isn't doing its job," said Ryan Stark, president of Blackstone Laboratories. "But it does reveal the rate at which the additives are being used up."

Oil Analysis, a Growing Business

Stark said that his company, which employs six analysts, gets about 20 new customers a day and does between 40,000 and 50,000 reports per year. A single analysis costs $22.50 but discounts are available for multiple analyses. Blackstone can also analyze transmission fluid and other engine fluids to look for possible problems.

Many other laboratories offer engine oil analysis, but Blackstone's reports are user-friendly, and the turnaround is quick. Within days of our mailing in two 4-ounce samples, the results were e-mailed to us.

"We've had customers who were changing their oil every 3,000 miles and now they've gone to every 10,000 miles because of our reports," said Stark. "But we're conservative. If the oil looks good at 3,000 miles we recommend increasing the frequency by 2,000 miles and taking another look at it."

A Used-Car Buying Tool?

A Long Beach, California, company that provides pre-purchase inspections for private parties is breaking new ground by planning to offer engine oil analysis to private-party used car buyers.

"With an oil sample test, which essentially is the DNA of a car's engine and transmission, we can detect any excessive conditions that can lead to serious mechanical problems down the road," said Alliance Inspection Management Vice President of Sales Eric Widmer.

If the oil sample result meets industry standards, a limited warranty will be offered to the buyer. Edmer said this was the first time an inspection service has used this method to qualify a buyer for a warranty. It would, Edmer points out, provide a level of confidence for used-car buyers shopping for a reliable car.

Stark said that some of Blackstone's customers have sent samples from cars they were considering buying but it's far more common practice with buyers of airplanes, boats, motorcycles or even jet skis.

How To Take an Engine Oil Sample

We took the Mitsubishi samples by sliding under the car, unscrewing the oil filter and draining the oil into a glass jar. The jar was sealed securely, wrapped in padding and Fed Exed to Blackstone.

Taking a sample in this manner is messy, and you can burn your hand on the hot oil filter. Instead, you'll want to use a vacuum pump that takes a sample through the dipstick opening. Such a pump is available from Blackstone or other oil analysis labs.

Oil Analysis for Do-It-Yourselfers

Car owners who enjoy changing their own oil will find oil analysis an inexpensive test and easy to perform as part of engine maintenance. It helps consumers tailor their oil change intervals and experiment with the benefits of different oils such as synthetic blends. Furthermore, some people might try it as a used car shopping tool next time they are looking for a reliable car.

Then again, there is the pure love of knowledge that such a test provides. For a gearhead, that's an end in itself. "For years and years no one knew when to change the oil, so they went with three months and 3,000 miles," Stark said. "Now, we can provide a service that's a good value to people so they really know what's best for their engine."

Source: Edmunds

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Advanced Safety Technologies 'i-ACTIVSENSE' Introduction Movie

Car Tip of the Week: Confessions of a Parking Valet

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It can be nerve-wracking handing your car keys to a total stranger at a valet station. You don't know if they're responsible drivers, what their definition of "gentle" is, or often where your car is headed. If all parking valets were trustworthy, there wouldn't be a need for the "valet key" that prevents one from opening the trunk and glovebox.

When we decided to delve into the secret life of valet parking attendants, we expected some stories about concealed door dings, petty theft or occasional hijinks behind the wheel. But we had no idea the extent to which some valets routinely take liberties with their customers' property.

Our "confessor" (let's call him Mark) has worked both at upscale hotels and small valet parking companies and has seen (and done) his share of mischief. He shares his experience with us, no holds barred. Learning how valets think and how some of them treat your property might make you reconsider self-parking.

Who's Parking Your Car?

According to Mark, most parking valets fall into three general categories. The first is student types seeking flexible hours and a job that doesn't require much training. The second group is often working nights after another job, and are often the most dedicated employees. The third and smallest group are folks often unable to hold down any other work, and they're the most prone to hitting poles in parking lots, losing keys and disrespecting customers.

"There's a big difference between valet parking companies in terms of the quality of people they hire to park cars," Mark explains. "One company I worked for tested applicants' reading and basic math, required a copy of your seven-year driving record and demanded a background and credit check. I guess they figure the ones with really bad credit would be more apt to steal from customers. Another company wanted a high school diploma — that's it. They didn't even read my application before offering me a shift."

Our confessor pointed out that few driving skills are required, and some companies employ people who don't have a driver license. "Valet companies might ask if you drive a stick when they hire you, but if you don't, you can just let other valets handle those cars. Some valets aren't as friendly to stick-shift cars as they should be, especially high-end cars like Porsches and BMWs. They might drop the clutch or drive at 50 miles per hour in 2nd gear. Nothing that's going to destroy the car, but it's unnecessary abuse. Most valets don't understand the intricacies of driving performance cars either. They don't realize how low to the ground they are and sometimes run over the concrete parking stops, scraping up the car."

It's All About the Tips

Valet parking is a service job, much like being a server at a restaurant. Pay is based largely on tips and most valets will usually do their best to earn a good one. "Valets always find out about a good tipper and make sure to take good care of that customer. My company pools all the tips, so there's no competition for the 'best' customers. But in smaller operations, if you're given a tip, you just pocket it."

Many assume that the people with the nicest cars will leave the biggest tips, but that's not always the case. "I drive all sorts of luxury cars for people who tip very little or not at all. The customers who have experience working crappy jobs are the ones who have more empathy and tend to tip better. A lot of people who are 'forced' to valet by the hotel assume they don't have to tip. Maybe they think the hotel is paying the valets better than they are, but we're making minimum wage plus tips."

How much to tip? A survey of so-called "tipping guides" indicates a wide range, anything from $1 to $10 depending on the situation. An informal poll of Edmunds editors elicited a similarly wide array of answers — anywhere from "nothing" to $10 or more at a hotel, but averaged $2-$3, paid when retrieving the vehicle.

Parking Pitfalls

"There are the usual mistakes like dings or scrapes that are just accidents," Mark explains. "Park enough cars and it's bound to happen, especially on really busy days." The most common valet mishap is misplacing keys, which has various origins. "If a lazy valet doesn't put a ticket on the customer's keychain, or the key is incorrectly placed on the valet board, or the ticket gets ripped off or the parking location is written down incorrectly, or you, the customer, lose your valet ticket, then we have no idea which car is yours."

A valet's favorite scenario? "Let's say you've given us a valet key to a car and it doesn't have a remote door unlock on the fob. But the valet didn't mark down the right parking stall on the valet ticket. So when you come to pick up your car, we don't know where it is. We don't have a remote that can sound the horn either, so we have to run up and down all the rows, trying the key in every car of that brand."

The oddest mix-up? "The exact same rental cars got swapped between two customers. No one noticed until one of them tried to return it to Hertz. In that case, it took us two days to sort it out."

What Annoys Valets Most

It would seem like common sense to avoid angering someone with the keys to your car. If you really want to annoy a valet (at your own risk), keep asking for your car to be brought around over and over again to get something out of it. "If you tell us everything you want from the car the first time, we'll bring it all back for you. It saves everyone time that way."

Another gripe is forgetting to explain a car's quirks, such as complex security systems or aftermarket modifications — including vertically opening gullwing doors. "When one of the valets pulled the door open [on a 2005 Mustang convertible], we heard a horrible crunching noise and the door wouldn't move. What the owner had neglected to tell anyone was that he had a 'Lambo' door conversion kit on the car, and that the door didn't open as normal."

A favorite pet peeve of many valets is cars that reflect poor personal hygiene — they may smell, have trash everywhere or look like they've never seen the inside of a car wash. "When you're afraid of contracting a disease by sitting in the seat, it's generally a bad sign."

The worst is forgetting to leave the keys with the valet on a busy day, far easier to do these days with so many "keyless" ignitions. "We can't move the car, and it clogs the driveway while we have to track you down somewhere."

Revenge of the Valet...or Just for Fun

If you're particularly rude, aggravating or have stiffed on a tip in the past, there are a number of things the valet staff might do in response. Notably, most valets won't show annoyance or anger the customer. "First and easiest, we'll take a long time to bring your car up, and we're not going to take the time to put your seat and mirrors back the way they were. But I have known valets who lower tire pressures, change climate and radio settings, or intentionally ding the door or scrape paint in a place where it's not easily noticed. There's nothing better than getting your revenge and getting them to tip you, too."

When you're not around to see it, there's a lot valets do:

  • Blast the stereo and change the radio stations: "Any time that I have a car with a good stereo in it, I take an extra minute to check out the sound quality. I also change the satellite radio station, but I almost always change it back."
  • Speed in a parking structure or on the street while driving to a lot: "We once had a running contest going to see who could get the fastest top speed inside the hotel parking structure. I set the record with a 55-mph run in a Porsche 996 GT2."
  • Rev the engines of performance cars: "I can't help revving up the engines of the cool cars I get to park. My favorite was a Lamborghini Gallardo. I drove it straight to the top floor and called all of my friends in my phonebook. I said, 'Guess what I'm driving!' then stuck the phone out the window and revved the engine. Heck, I even called my parents and did that."
  • Drift: "After our parking garage is cleaned, we have to re-park all of the cars back in the structure. Of course, having an empty, wet parking structure just begs for a little hoonage. I take every rear-wheel-drive rental car and find out how well they drift going up the structure. Surprisingly, the Chrysler Crossfire does a great job. Gotta love rental cars; they take the most abuse."
  • Go through the customer's property: "Though I personally never rifled through anyone's belongings, I hear plenty of, 'You should have seen what I found in this person's car' while we're standing around waiting for cars to pull in."

With all these shenanigans happening with your car, is the management aware? "Our manager doesn't know about most of this stuff," Mark admits, "but he helps cover up our mistakes sometimes. He always keeps a container of rubbing compound and wax in the office in case there's a scrape. We'll clean and buff the affected areas and pray the customers don't notice. Most of the time, they don't. I have seen managers rub out many small scrapes and never report the incident."

Advice for Customers

Remember, you are giving one of the most expensive things you own to a complete stranger. You would be surprised how far a smile, a good attitude and even a little pleasant small talk will get you. If you're pleasant and tip, most valets will go way beyond the call of duty. Here's what to keep in mind, according to Mark:

  • Realize that it's not all about you: "We're dealing with many, sometimes hundreds, of customers a day. Time is money for us, too."
  • Don't leave valuables or anything illegal in your car: "Not if you want them to be there when you get back. We've found drugs, adult-only items, even guns." Smaller items are more likely to be taken.
  • Clean the interior as well as the exterior once in awhile: "And for God's sake, use a trash bag."
  • If your car is damaged or anything is missing, tell the valet manager and get a copy of the incident report and the contact information of their insurance company. Don't accept it if he asserts that the "release of liability" language on your ticket absolves them — it won't stand up in court.
  • Valets at a hotel usually work for a contracted company, so if you have any problems with their service, notify hotel management. They can help resolve disputes in your favor.
  • Be wary in major cities where valets must park cars on the street. If a valet parks illegally or forgets to feed the meter, the customer can get stuck with the ticket.
  • Tip a little when you drop off the car, especially at a hotel, and your car will get better treatment: "The valets will be more likely to 'keep it close' in the hope that you're a good tipper and that you'll reward them for bringing up your car quickly."
  • Evening shifts are the roughest for hotel valets: "We work our butts off to park all the cars of the people checking in and barely make any tips. The morning shift makes big tips the next day when people get their cars to go places or check out of the hotel."
  • Reward a valet for working hard. "If it's raining and he appears with an umbrella, or he towels down your seat to keep you dry, he deserves a bigger tip. But don't worry about not giving a tip if you don't like the service."
  • You get what you give: "Your car will usually get the same treatment that you give us, for better or for worse."

There are plenty of honest, hard-working parking valets out there who want nothing more than to serve their customers and earn a living. So when you drop your car off, it's a good idea to look your valet in the eye and acknowledge that he's a person, too. If not for that reason, then at least to improve the odds of getting your car back exactly as you left it.

Source: Edmunds